1962 - 1967 Chevy II

Disc Brake Conversion and

Front End Rebuilding Reference Page

Denis' 67

WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

The information within this web site is for entertainment purposes only. Modifying your vehicle's brake system is dangerous and is not recommended. You should seek the advice of a professional for brake work. I am not responsible for any dumb asses that do stupid thing and hurt themselves.

WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING! WARNING!

The picture and content in these pages are copyright of Denis Petit and may not be copied without written permission.

Questions? Comments? You can email me, just click here e-mail me




After building a 406 cubic inch motor and achieving high 11's in the quarter mile, I started thinking about the safety and drivability. Yeah, I know, it should have been one of the first things I did.

The drum brake front end of the 62 - 67 Chevy II has its share of quirks. The first problem that bothered me was the inherent problem of pulling under braking. Although the drum brakes can stop the car fine, you only have one or maybe two taps of the pedal at speed to stop the car. Drum brakes are known for their problems of brake fade. If you haven't experience brake fade, then you won't have a true appreciation for it.


There are plenty of kits out there to upgrade your first generation Chevy II brakes, but I thought they were very expensive for what is in the kit. The only other problem is that the donor parts that you need from a 68 - 74 Nova are getting scarce. I took my time and found some parts. One of the hardest parts to find was the caliper bracket. You can buy the caliper bracket new from the "kit" companies. Once again, this is the expensive route. The best way is to find a donor car from your local junkyard or search the want advertisements for an appropriate vehicle.

After researching and asking a lot of questions on Steve McNabb's Chevy II/Nova Question & Answer Page and Scott Windle's Nova Reference Site, I decided to take the plunge and upgrade my front brake to the 68 - 74 Nova brakes.

You will need the parts from any one of these vehicles (Single Piston Calipers Only):

      • 68 - 74 Nova
      • 73 - 74 Omega
      • 71 - 74 Ventura II
      • 73 - 74 Apollo
      • 67 - 69 Camaro
      • 67 - 69 Firebird
      • 67 - 72 Chevelle
      • 70 - 72 Monte Carlo
      • 68 - 72 El Camino
      • 67 - 72 Buick Special
      • 68 - 72 Buick Skylark
      • 68 - 72 Oldsmobile Cutlass
      • 67 - 72 Oldsmobile F-85
      • 68 - 72 Pontiac LeMans
      • 68 - 72 Pontiac Grand Prix
      • 71 - 72 GMC Sprint



***A Side Note on "Donor Car" Spindles***
  • "Can the "68-73 Nova" disc spindles be installed on a "72 Chevelle" to replace its drum brake spindles or bad disc brake spindles?"

    OR

  • "Can the "72 Chevelle" disc spindles work on a "70-72 Monte Carlo" to replace drum brake spindles or bad disc spindles?"

It turns out that all of the "2-bolt GM intermediate disc spindles" are the same, whether it is front or rear steer. The difference between the disc spindles and the drum spindles of the same era is the height of the upper mounting boss. You can replace a disc spindle with a drum spindle if you machine off the boss by 0.550". But, in order to install one of these spindles on an 1962 - 1967 Nova, you need a lower ball joint adapter.

They are all interchangeable, as long as they have the detachable steering arms such as a Nova, Chevelle, Omega, etc. All of the caliper brackets will be the same.

Thanks to Mike, Phil, Scott Windle, and many others from Steve McNabb's Chevy II/Nova Question & Answer Page for this information!


There is two ways to accomplish the swap. You can use the 68 - 74 Nova spindles or you can modify your 62 -67 Chevy II spindles. If you go with the 68 - 74 Nova spindles, you will have to buy a special ball-joint kit from Global West for approximately $125.00. I chose to modify my drum brake spindles. It will require you to mill the top (largest) bolt boss down approximately 0.550". Most machine shops can modify this for you for less than $75.00. Bring the caliper brackets with you for them to take off the correct amount necessary to mount the bracket (more to follow in the pictures).

Below are a list of parts purchased and the price that I paid:

  • Used Front Disc Brake Set Up from a 70 Nova, complete spindles with calipers, rotors, etc. --- $75.00
  • New Rotors - Advanced Auto Parts --------------------------------------------------- $58.00 ea---$116.00
  • New Calipers - Exchange old for cores - Advanced Auto Parts --------------------- $21.00 ea--- $42.00
  • New Pads - Advanced Auto Parts --------------------------------------------------------------------- $10.00
  • New Caliper Bolts - Advanced Auto Parts ---------------------------------------------- $3.00 ea--- $12.00
  • New Front Flexible Hose - Advanced Auto Parts ------------------------------------- $34.00 ea--- $68.00
  • New Front Seals - Advanced Auto Parts ------------------------------------------------ $3.00 ea--- $3.00
  • New Front Inner Bearing - Advanced Auto Parts -------------------------------------- $7.00 ea--- $14.00
  • New Front Outer Bearings - Advanced Auto Parts -------------------------------------- $4.00 ea--- $8.00

    Total Cost of Parts ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- $348.00



I stripped the car of the fenders, hood, grill, bumper, etc. My purpose was to detail the engine compartment. I also thought it would be easier to take pictures and document the changeover. I will also take the time to detail the rest of the front end and suspension pieces when I reassemble it.

I have noticed that my stock bushings were no longer. I ordered a front-end rebuild kit from PSC (Performance Suspension Components). I ordered the poly-graphite suspension bushings in the rebuild kit. The kit comes complete with all the necessary components and instructions. Follow along and check out the pictures for more detail.


You can follow along as I try to illustrate the project:

Engine Shot

First off, I removed the hood because I will detail the engine compartment. Take note of the master cylinder, since that will be replaced with an 8-inch power booster and new disc/drum master cylinder.




Another Engine Shot

I stripped the car of the fenders, grill, bumper, etc. It would be easier to take pictures and document the changeover. I will also take the time to detail the rest of the front end and suspension pieces when I reassemble it.




Drivers Side

After removing the front fenders and front items such as the grill, filler panel, and bumper; I removed the front wheels and took a snap shot of the two sides.




Passenger Side

Take a look at the mint green over spray that the last guy left. Is this attractive or what? For those taking notes, the front shocks are 90/10 Lakewood Drag Shock. They work well.




Unbolting the Spindle

I unbolted the upper and lower ball-joint nuts. I removed the brake drum and front brake parts. Remove the backing plates and all brake hardware. Remove the outer tie rod. Then use a pickle fork to remove the spindle from the ball-joints.




Spindle is out

Remove the spindle assembly out. At this time, you can do the same to the driver's side. After removing all of the parts, I stamped the sides left and right, in order not to confuse them when I reassemble the front. This would be the ideal time to take your spindles to a machine shop with your 68 -74 caliper brackets. (More on that modification later.)




Nice Bushing!

Gee, I wonder why my car would never hold a front-end alignment? The bushing here is the original, can you tell? The years have dried out the bushing. The polyurethane bushings are long overdue. I will be sandblasting all components and painting them in a single stage urethane.


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